Sailing Frenchmans Bay on the Margaret Todd

A crew member secures ropes while underway; below, Harrison Thorp and Martha Soto-Galicia learn the ropes of hoisting sail, a Park ranger looks for signs of an immature eagle on a Frenchmans Bay island; and the Margaret Todd. (TLV photos)

ABOARD THE MARGARET TODD - When we decided to take a two-hour trip on the schooner Margaret Todd around Bar Harbor and Frenchmans Bay, we never knew there’d be work involved.

But there was.

Soon after we departed her berth in front of the Bar Harbor Inn, Captain Steve Pagels announced he could use about 15 volunteers to help raise four of the 151-foot schooner’s largest sails: foresail, mainsail, mizzensail and spankersail. 

It was my first sail on a schooner so I said aye, aye, sir, and grabbed a rope along with a crew member and two other volunteers.

As we prepared to hoist away on the mainsail, I was surprised to see none other than The Lebanon Voice President Martha T. Soto-Galicia positioned to help out on the foresail with another crew member and volunteers.

I looked back and saw groupings of crew members and volunteers on both the mizzen and spanker awaiting Capt. Pagels’ command.

“Once we start, remember to put one hand after the other at the same height on the rope so we don’t hit each other,” our group crewman said.

Once the order was given to “hoist away” raising nearly 4,000 square feet of sail, I was amazed at how burdensome a task it was. 

It took about only two minutes, but it felt like an eternity as my shoulders and arms began to burn from the constant muscle strain.

I’d thought it would be a bit of a lark, but I was wrong.

Once we’d raised the sails to their uppermost reach, it was time for one more hard tug and the crewmember deftly secured the rope on a nearby cleat.

Moments later Captain Pagels turned off the engine and the 151-foot Margaret Todd was cutting gracefully and effortlessly through Frenchmans Bay.

Off in the distance on one of the nearby islands we heard an immature eagle’s cries for its mother. You don’t hear that above an engine’s roar.

In the water we saw porpoises and harbor seals.

Passengers are invited to bring a picnic lunch, and one group brought wine and cheese for the two-hour sail.

During the sail a park ranger from Acadia National Park apprised passengers of the natural treasures of Frenchmans Bay and its many islands.

The Margaret Todd is just 15 years old, weighs 150 tons and has a draft of 12 feet with her centerboard down.

A crew of six young people assisted Pagels as they nimbly traversed the deck, some barefoot, trimming sails and answering passenger’s questions.

When we neared the wharf on our return Pagels turned the motor back on and expertly docked the Margaret Todd.

A remarkably peaceful, tranquil experience in a one-of-a-kind vessel.

For more information on the Margaret Todd visit http://downeastwindjammer.com.